sâmbătă, 11 aprilie 2020

UPDATE - ESCALADA POSTAVAR , FALEZELE ABOLAND .





            Imagine panoramica si detalii actualizate ale rutelor de escalada sportiva pe care le-am amenajat in zona din amonte de Cheile Rasnoavei . Aria cumuleaza 140 de trasee amenajate , cu o lungime totala de 4200 m.  Munca la aceasta zona am inceput-o in 2002-pana in prezent, in mare parte din resurse proprii (80%). Am fost sprijinit si de Programul Proclimbing (Florin Ularu, Frank Schobel, Leslie Fucsko), cat si ajutat cu munca dar  si ceva resurse matariale de cataratori brasoveni.  Un proiect de suflet si un frumos vis implinit !                                                    













1.              
SECTORUL A :
Peretele ABOLAND : 27 trasee, dreapta-stanga

1.               Definitia Spitului , 25m, P, 9 (7c) ?
2.               Seasons in the Abyss, 35m, 8 (7a) prima parte, P 10 (8b)? integral.
3.               Seasons in the Abyss varianta prima parte , 9-(7b+)?.
4.               Spaimele Galbene, 35m, 7+/8-.  (6c).
5.               Old School , 40m, 7 .  (6b).
6.               Equilibrium, 60 m, 10+  (8b+)? prima parte.7+ (6b+) partea a doua.
7.               Stop Digging, 16m, 8-. (6c+).
8.               Seniorul Apocalipsei , 30m, P, 10+ (8b+)? integral , 9/9+(7c+) prima parte.
9.               Piroman , 15m, P, 10  (8b) ?
10.            Deify Thy Master, 52m, P, 10  (8b)?
11.            Bitum Jacuzzi, 32m, P, 10 (8b)?
12.            Gradiator, 30m, P, 10- (8a+)?
13.            Gradiation, 30m, P, 9+(7c+)?
14.            Skylifter, 60m, 9+ (7c/c+)prima parte(24m).
15.            Dejavoodoo, 50m, P, 10( 8b)?
16.            1 Decembrie, 55m, 9-.(7b).
17.            1 Dec. varianta, 30m, 9+ (7c+)?
18.            Dust in the Wind, 50m, P, 10  (8b)?, 7(6b) a doua parte.
19.            Mizantropia, 25m, P , 8+ (7a+)?
20.            Psihodrama, 25m , P , 9- (7b)?
21.            Valhalla, 20m, P, 9+ (7c+)?
22.            Absolution, 35m , P , 10 (8b)?
23.            Titanium, 50m ,2 parti, P, 9+ (7c+)?
24.            Abolander , 30m, P, 9- (7b)?
25.            Calea Fortei, 25m, 9-.(7b+)
26.            Mars Imperial, 25m,9-.(7b).

27.            Magnus Dei, 20m , P, 9+ (7c)?





Peretele TZANC : 4 trasee ,dreapta-stanga





1.               Reinforcement, 18m, 8-.(6c+)
2.               Plutonium, 17m, 7+.(6b+).
3.               Iridium , 17m, 8+. (7a+).
4.               Frate Badesciene ! , 17m, 7 . (6b).


 Peretele PORTAL : 5 trasee, dreapta-stanga




1.               Cadmium, 25m, 6+.(6a+).
2.               Nickel, 25m, 9-.(7b+).
3.               Everlasting Terror, 35m , P, 9+ (7c+)?
4.               Total Terror, 35m, P, 9- (7b)?
5.               Diabolus in Vidfernia, 35m, P, 8 (7a)?


 Peretele POLIGONUL SUSPENDAT : 14 trasee, dreapta-stanga




1.               Lividus Maxima , 20m , 7-.(6a+).
2.               Endomorphism , 10m,P, 7+ (6b+).
3.               Frustrarae Humanum Est... 10m ,P , 10 (8b)?
4.               Mezomorphism, 22m, P, 8+ (7a+)?
5.               Fearification, 28m, P, 8+ (7a+)?
6.               Karmic Abisalyzer, 32m, P, 9  (7c)?
7.               Kinetic Cibernetic , 32m, P, 9+  (7c+)?
8.               Click Dreapta, 22m, 7. (6b).
9.               Cu Moartea pre Moarte Calcand, 20m, 8-.(6c+).
10.            Strongy, 20m, P, 10-/10 (8a+)?
11.            Racirea Vremii, 20m, 7 .(6b).
12.            Alveolist, 23m , 8-.(6c).
13.            Tyrannus, 23m,P, 8+/9- (7b)?
14.            Dignitis Minima , 23m,P, 8 (7a) ?


 Sector G - Marele V
peretele central , stanga -dreapta :
1.               Idealist , 27m, P, 9- (7b+)?
2.               Stinge Tigara ! , 28m, P, 7- (6a+)?


 Sectorul B-TURNULETUL : 6 trasee , drepta-stanga

1. Durere in Tanatosfera , 20m, P, 10 (8b)?
2. Degetarul , 20m, 9+/10-.(8a+).
3. Mitza , 18m, 8 (7a).
4. Liviu, 18m, 6+.(6a+).
5. Blue Water , 18m, 7+.(6b+).
6. Second Hand , 24m, 7+.(6b+).


 Sectorul C : 12 trasee, stanga-dreapta




     1. Fisura Ielelor, 35m, 6+  (6a).
     2. Marele Septar, 35m, 7.(6b).
     3. Schweitzer, 35m, 8+.(7a+).
     4. Cazi ! 20m, 8.
     5. Aerodrom, 35m, 8-.(6c+).
6. Pisica Neagra, 35m, 10-.(8a+)
7. Gudron , 27m, 9- (7b+)?
8. Catran , 27m, 9- (7b+)?
9. Bitum , 26m, 9- (7b+?
10. Citom, 25m(varianta Nicotina ), 9 (7c)?
11. Nicotina , 25m, 8  (7a).
12. Asfalt , 23m, 9- (7b).



 Sectorul D : 33  trasee, stanga-dreapta




1.               Nicidecum !, 18m, 9+ (8a).
2.               Wolfgang, 18m, 7+ (6b+).
3.               Nu pot sa Cred!, 24m, P, 9+ (7c)?
4.               Hai la Taticu... , 22m, P, 10 (8b)?
5.               Apophis, 32m, 7  (6b) prima parte, a doua P,10 (8b)?
6.               Thanathos , 32m, 8., 7 (6b) prima parte.
7.               Chrysogonos,30m, P, 10-( 8a)?
8.               Jabacca, 35m, 7- (6a+)
9.               Yamamoto , 34m, 8+ ( 7a+).
10.            Moonboard , 8m, 9- (7b).
11.            Warm Up , 12m, 6+ (6a+).
12.            Warm Up Varianta , 12m, 6+ (6a+).
13.            Praf in Ochi , 22m, 10- (8a)?
14.            Sarlaac, 16m, 7 (6b).
15.            Death Star, 15m, P, 10- (8a+)?
16.            Blockstart, 15m, P, 10 (8b)?
17.            Blockend , 8m, P, 9+ (7c+)?
18.            Control, 22m, P, 9 (7c).
19.            Chewbacca, 22m, 8-/8.(6c+).
20.            R2D2, 18m, 8+/9-  (7b+).
21.            Superbia, 45m, P, 10 (8b)?   , 9+  (7c+) prima parte.
22.            Jungle, 15m, 8+ (7a+)?
23.            Cald si Bine ,  5+  (5c ) (I) , 32m , 10- (8a+)?(II).
24.            Usureanu ,5-  (5c)., 15m.
25.            Greuceanu , 30m, 10- (8a+)?
26.            Greedo, 34m, 9-/9.,(7b+)  , 7- (6a+) prima parte .
27.            Bountyhunter, 24m, 8- (6c+).
28.            Bradut, 25m, 7- (6a+).
29.            Ciupitu , 20m, 7 (6b)/ v 9- (7b)?
30.            Braveheart, 25m, 8+ (7a+).
31.            Tentatia, 15m, 7+ (6b+).
32.            Extensor, 15m, 9 (7c).
33.            Diedrul, 16m , 6 (6a) .
34.            Burtica, 15m, 7- (6a+).




Sector D sup. - LIRA, 5 trasee, stanga-dreapta :




1.               Loc de dat cu Capul , 18m, P, 9  (7c)?
2.               Lira , 30m, 8 (7a) .
3.               Fii Penibil ! 25m, P, 9- (7b+)?
4.               Dark Ways , 25m, P, 9 (7c)?
5.               Stardust , 25m, P , 9- (7b) ?


Sectorul D superior-TOTALITAR Wall, 9 trasee, stanga-dreapta




1.               Psihasm, 18m , P, 10 (8b)?
2.               Enter Lord Abyssolous, 22m, P, 10- (8a+)?
3.               Cascadadepiatra, 22m , P, 10  (8b)?
4.               Strecuratoarea , 16m , P, 9+ (7c+)?
5.               The Time in Now!, 18m, 8+ (7a+).
6.               Totalitar, 30m, 9- (7b).
7.               Supremist, 22m, P, 9+ (7c+)?
8.               Absolutist, 23m , P, 9+ (7c+)?
           9.               Monodeus, 22m, P, 10- (8a)?




Sector D - Peretele AMFITEATRU, 8 trasee, dreapta-stanga




1.               Cyclop, 15m, 9+ (7c+).
2.               Cumpana, 15m, 7 (6b).
3.               Anaerobic for Charismatics, 15m, P, 10- (8a+) ?
4.               Remus, 16m , 9- (7b).
5.               Pollux, 17m, 9 (7c).
6.               Castor, 18m , 7+ (6b+).
7.               Romulus, 25m, 7 (6b).
8.               Turnul de Fildes, 35m, 7+ (6b+).



Sectorul D superior : 11 trasee, stanga-dreapta




1.               Rest in Pain! , 25m, 8- (6c+).
2.               Fa Pasi ! , 25m , 8+/9- (7b).
3.               Natural Aggressivity, 25m , 8- (6c+).
4.               The Flames of the End, 24m , 9- (7b+).
5.               Edge of Sanity, 25m, 8+ (7b).
6.               Appetite for Suffering, 27m , 7 (6b).
7.               Creasta Vantului, 17m, 6+ (6a).
8.               Batranu, 18m, 7+ (6b+).
9.               Jucaria Suprema, 17m, 7+/8- (6c).
10.            The Burning Darkness, 16m, 9- (7b+).

11.            Macchiavellic Symphony, 30m, 7- (6a+).

marți, 12 noiembrie 2019

Noua Premiera in Piatra Craiului - Traseul "Nusu Ion".

      Uneori, cu cat ai mai putine asteptari de la tine sau de la o zi de ascensiune , cu atat oportunitatea de a trai o surpriza minunata se intrevede .... Asa a fost si cu ziua de 9 Noiembrie 2019, cand , alaturi de Andrei Vlad , am reusit , in peretele Cioranga Mare , Masivul Piatra Craiului, ascensiunea in premiera a unei rute noi , de 5 lungimi de coarda (aprox. 230m), in circa 4 ore de escalada efectiva . Pornind la 8 .15 din Brasov , la 11.15 eram la Refugiul Sperantelor, iar la 12. 30 intram in perete , iar la 16.30 ieseam in creasta , primii 20 m fiind in parcurs comun cu hornul din Lespezile Lirei .  Desi am avut ciocan si pitoane la noi,   pe tot parcursul escaladei nu am plasat  asigurari fixe , ci NUMAI PROTECTII MOBILE . Singura exceptie este un piton plasat in prima regrupare , care a fost scos de secund. Ruta a fost catarata cap/ secund, ambii rotpunkt integral la vedere.

      Ruta am deschis-o in amintirea  celui care a fost prietenul nostru si omul de munte Ion Neagoe (Nusu) , plecat dintre noi anul trecut . 


Materiale avute la noi :
- corzi gemene de 60m, una Beal Gully 7,3mm, cealalta Black Diamond 7mm.
- Set frienduri - Black diamond Camalot, # 0,3 #1, #2, , # 3, #4.
- Set frienduri Rock Empire -marimea 1-5, cu dubluri mediile, fara micro.
- Tricam marimi medii si mici .
- Nuci Dmm Alloy offset ,- 1 set.
- Nuci Cassin halfmoon , marimi mari,
- 17 bucle express dyneema
- Cordelina , kevlar .
- 2 cliff.

Lungimile dupa cum urmeaza :
 - L1: 60m, gr. IV. R1.
 - L2: 35m, gr.V. R1.
 - L3: 50m, gr. VI+. R1.
 - L4: 45m, gr. VII , R2.
 - L5: 35m, gr.VII-, R1.


R1: Cordelina Kevlar , nuca offset si piton. 

Recuperand , pe L2:

                                       
                                        R4: triunghi din 3 frienduri.


                                              Plasament in "gat de sticla ".


                              Recuperare , pe fisura finala.


                                         In creasta .


                           Sectiunea cu pasajul-cheie . Foto Teofil Vlad.